Thursday, July 23, 2026

San Salvador Island, of Lucayans, pirates, Columbus, and a priest

 

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By Jane Feehan

Aspects of South Florida history and that of The Bahamas often connect our news and events, our culture and people. It’s why a few posts about Bimini appear in this blog.

Recently I met a few Fort Lauderdale residents either from or who have visited San Salvador Island, about 380 miles southeast of Miami. This 12-mile long, five-mile-wide island is home to fewer than 1,200 residents.

San Salvador’s history is intriguing. A consensus of historians and geographers point to San Salvador as the probable site of first landfall made by explorer and mapmaker Christopher Columbus in the New World.

After leaving the Canary Islands September 6,1492 Columbus reached what he thought was Asia on October 12, 1492. “He saw, as the day dawned, a level island…covered with trees.”  A crew member described the place as having “very green trees and much water.” Curious but peaceful Lucayan Arawak Indians greeted the European visitors. They called their home Guanahani; Columbus renamed it San Salvador, meaning Holy Savior.

Columbus continued to travel westward seeking riches not found in San Salvador Island. The Lucayan population, decimated by European disease and hardships imposed by European slavery, disappeared in less than 30 years. The Spanish never populated San Salvador and abandoned it.

Island history thereafter is about others seeking opportunities, including English pirates and hopeful but disappointed cotton farmers.

Pirate George (or John) Watling operated briefly from there in 1680, making part of his fortune through “wrecking.” He and his men intentionally caused ships to run aground leaving crew and cargo vulnerable to murder and plunder. (Wrecking in early Florida meant salvaging crew and cargo and selling or keeping cargo when they could. At times wrecking was the main source of income among settlers.)

Watling pirated in and around San Salvador in 1680. He died in Peru in 1681. He left quite a reputation; the island was referred to as Watling’s (or Watling) Island for nearly 300 years. There was plenty of news about Watling Island in the 1800s. Newspapers in London published dispatches from the island about hurricanes, and reinsurance notices after ships wrecked off the island because of storms and other mishaps.

Watling Island, along with its neighboring 700 islands of The Bahamas (baja mar means shallow sea) became a British colony in 1718. The Bahamas gained independence July 10, 1973.

And when and why did the island regain the name San Salvador? The story goes back about 100 years and was the result of the efforts of Father Chrysostom Schreiner, the first permanent Catholic priest (Benedictine Order) assigned to The Bahamas. He arrived in Nassau in 1891. For years he researched the history of the 1492 Columbus landing.

Controversy swirled around the site of landfall for years. Some researchers used incorrect maps in pinpointing the site. Others, such as Captain A. B. Beecher R.N. Polter, consulted journals Christoher Columbus left and was convinced the journals, not the maps, were correct. His book, The Landfall of Columbus on his First Voyage, published in 1856, details his research and conclusions.  Even American writer and historian Washington Irving (1783-1859) jumped into the debate claiming Cat Island, 57 miles northwest, was the actual landing site. (Cat Island is site of the tallest point in The Bahamas—about 204 feet.)

Father Chrysostom moved to San Salvador in his later years* where he died in 1928, but not before convincing the Parliament of The Bahamas to change the name and encouraging the recognition of the island as “one of the most important shrines in the world.”

Parliament of The Bahamas recognized his efforts with Act. No 27 of 1926 (Bahamas Laws Portal) indicates “Cat Island to be referred to as Cat Island. The island now known as Watlings Island to be referred to as San Salvador or Watling Island.”

Common use won. We know this tiny island today as San Salvador Island.

Points of interest:

Capital of San Salvador: Cockburn Town (pronounced Coburn). One of the smallest towns in The Bahamas

Churches: Holy Saviour Roman Catholic Church, St. Augustine’s Anglican Church

San Salvador Museum (former jail)

New World Museum

Dripping Rock Cave

Father Schreiner’s Grave

Dixon Hill Lighthouse

Ruins of Watling’s Castle (authenticity may be in doubt)

Christopher Columbus Statues

Today there are several places to stay, including Riding Rock Inn Resort and Marina.

Scuba divers visit to explore San Salvador’s underwater caves and caverns. Anglers laud its fishing; the International Game Fishing Association noted a record wahoo catch—155 pounds—in 1990.

An internet search on San Salvador without also using “island,” will often produce entries for the capital of El Salvador in Central America.

San Salvador may be small, but it holds historical significance and offers a singular Bahamian experience.

 * Father Chrysostom’s information about The Bahamas was entered into the Catholic Encyclopedia. Unrelated but interesting: The first plane (Rogers Airline out of Miami) to fly into San Salvador arrived in 1927. The pilot stopped to refuel while on a project to build wireless installations in The Bahamas. Father Chrysostom and a commissioner were taken on a brief flight over the island, perhaps the first residents to fly over San Salvador.

 Copyright © 2026. All rights reserved. Jane Feehan

Sources:

Howard, Blair. Visitor’s Guide to The Bahamas. Published in Orlando: 2013 (no other publishing information in book)

Kelly, Michael James, San Salvador. Chicago: American Popular Publication Co. 1892

Ramsey, Peter. A History of the Bahamas. Published in Orlando (no other publishing information in book): 2025.

The Illustrated London News, Oct. 22, 1842

The Times, Nov. 8, 1843 (London)

The Guardian, Nov. 15, 1845 (London)

Daily News, Aug. 23, 1856 (London)

The Guardian, May 21, 1906 (London)

The Daily Telegraph, Sept. 26, 1908 (London)

The Daily Telegraph, May 5, 1920 (London)

Salt Lake Tribune, May 26, 1925

The Daily Telegraph, Aug. 9,1926 (London)

The Herald, Jan. 29, 1928 (Miami)

The Miami Herald, July 18, 2002

https://www.bahamashistorythroughmaps.com/

https://islandmapstore.com/2021/01/san-salvador/

 

 

Tags: The Bahamas, San Salvador Island, Father Chrysostom Schreiner, Christopher Columbus landing, fishing, scuba diving